Understanding different hair types can sometimes feel like decoding a puzzle, especially when it comes to textured hair. Terms like “curly” and “coily” are often used interchangeably, which can lead to confusion. Are these terms two sides of the same coin, or do they refer to completely different things? For anyone with textured hair or those passionate about hair care, knowing the difference might be interesting. Let’s dive in to clarify whether coily hair falls under the curly category.
What Defines Curly Hair?
To understand where coily hair fits, we first need to define curly hair. Generally, curly hair is known for its loops or spirals that form naturally due to the shape of the hair follicle. It ranges from loose waves to bouncy ringlets, depending on a person’s unique curl pattern.
The General Characteristics of Curly Hair
Curly hair comes in various shapes and patterns. Typically, it’s identified by its ability to form noticeable loops or spirals. The texture can range from fine and soft to coarse and resilient. Many people use the widely-known hair typing chart to describe their curl pattern. On this chart, curly hair spans categories 2A to 3C:
- Type 2A, 2B, 2C: Wavy hair with an “S” shape, varying from loose to defined waves.
- Type 3A, 3B, 3C: True curly hair, ranging from loose curls to tight corkscrews.
Each type has its quirks. Some curls are soft and bouncy, while others are more structured. But what unites them all is their spiral-like movement, which is a hallmark of curly hair.
How Hair Typing Systems Work
The Andre Walker Hair Typing System is one of the most recognized ways to classify hair textures. It divides hair into four categories: straight (Type 1), wavy (Type 2), curly (Type 3), and coily (Type 4). Within these categories, subtypes (like 3B or 4A) account for variations in curl tightness and texture.
What Sets Coily Hair Apart?
Coily hair, also known as kinky hair, is the tightest texture in the hair typing system. People with coily hair often fall into the Type 4 range. While it shares some similarities with other curl types, its structure and appearance set it apart.
The Unique Features of Coily Hair
Coily hair is characterized by tightly wound curls that can appear as spirals, loops, or even zigzag patterns. It’s often sorted into three subcategories:
- Type 4A: Defined, tight curls that resemble small corkscrews.
- Type 4B: Z-shaped curls with sharp angles.
- Type 4C: The tightest coil pattern, with little to no visible curl definition.
One of the striking features of coily hair is shrinkage. It can appear much shorter than it actually is because of its tight curl pattern. Coily hair also tends to be drier, as the natural oils from the scalp struggle to travel down the twists and turns of the strands.
Coily Hair’s Relationship to Curl Patterns
Looking at the hair typing system, coily hair is technically included within the broader “curly” category. However, its unique structure sets it apart. While all coily hair has curls, not all curls can be classified as coily. The tightness and texture of coily hair make it distinct, but it still falls under the larger umbrella of curly hair types.
Is Coily Hair Actually Curly?
So, where does coily hair land in the curly vs. coily debate? The short answer: it depends on how you’re defining curls. Let’s break it down even further.
Differences in Terminology
Culturally and within the beauty industry, terminology can vary. Some people group all textured hair (including wavy, curly, and coily) into one category called “curly.” Others prefer a more specific classification to highlight the unique needs of coily hair. The way these terms are used often depends on the context. For example, hair care brands might separate coily hair into its own category because it requires specialized products and routines.
Scientific and Technical Perspectives
From a biological perspective, the shape of the hair follicle determines whether your hair is straight, wavy, curly, or coily. Oval-shaped follicles create curls, while round follicles produce straight hair. Coily hair, with its ultra-tight spirals, is simply an extreme version of curly hair caused by a very flat and ribbon-like follicle. This connection makes it clear that coily hair is, scientifically speaking, a subset of curly hair rather than a completely separate category.
Why the Distinction Matters
You might wonder why it’s even important to differentiate between curly and coily hair. After all, they’re part of the same textured hair family, right? While that’s true, understanding the distinctions has practical and cultural significance.
Implications for Hair Care Routines
Knowing whether your hair is curly or coily can make all the difference in how you care for it. Coily hair is naturally more fragile and needs products that provide intense moisture and protection. On the other hand, curly hair may need ingredients that help define looser curls without weighing them down. Without this knowledge, people could end up using products that don’t serve their hair texture, leading to unnecessary frustration.
Cultural and Personal Identity
Hair is deeply personal and often tied to cultural identity. For many people with coily hair, labeling their texture specifically (rather than grouping it under the “curly” umbrella) helps celebrate its uniqueness. Distinguishing between curly and coily hair also ensures better representation in media, beauty standards, and product development. When every texture is seen and acknowledged, the beauty industry becomes more inclusive.
Conclusion
So, is coily hair considered curly? Technically, yes—coily hair is an ultra-tight variation of curls. But its unique characteristics set it apart, and many people prefer to acknowledge it as its own category. Whether your hair is curly, coily, or anything in between, understanding your texture can help you care for it better and embrace what makes it special. No matter the terminology, the most important takeaway is to celebrate your hair and find what works for you.
